All posts by Cebu

Wheels & Exhaust…

Took the Elco over to NorCal mufflers to get the driver side mounting bracket redone. It was dangling by the header bolts. Also, got new front tires installed at a local shop. I need to figure out how to remove the wheel balance weights residue that was left on from the previous installation.

This  was the first time I had the Elco on a lift so I was able to look at the underside and see the setup. It has True Duals going straight into Flowmasters series exhaust.  After the mufflers turned downs are used right below the cabin, no wonder it’s so freakin’ loud!

A couple of functional mods that make a huge difference are the front and rear slotted rotor, caliper disc braking system and the UMI Stage 4 kit suspension with Viking coil overs. This upgrade is combined hovers around the $5000 range. 

 

 

Dually 2000 – Cargo & Brake Light…

Last week I went and checked the bulbs for the cargo and 3rd brake light. When I pulled out the stock lens there was no bulb base retainer in place.  Luckily the wiring was still intact. 

I ordered a LED replacement kit and it arrived today. This kit will serve as a cargo light as well as the 3rd brake light when brakes are applied. Everthing worked out as planned, the cargo light activates when either the interior light switch is set on or the driver door is in the open position.


1998 GMC K1500 Sierra…

For a while now Beaters inside door handle hasn’t been operational. You had to open the door from the outside. This was not such an issue since it’s not the drivers door. Since I learned how to replace the internal door handle on my Dually it was a breeze changing out Beaters internal handle.

Dually 2K – Driver side lock actuator…

It’s taken me a few day to troubleshoot that the door power lock problem was due to a bad door lock actuator. I had replaced the automatic lock relay first thinking that if all doors failed it must be a common component between all four door (crew cab). It turned out to be the actuator itself. I disconnected the push lock rods and tested the original actuator itself and the plunger barely pushed out and retracted. The voltage going to the actuator was +12V constant. I could tell the actuator was the original part since the two mounting rivets were still in tact.