Thought I’d pop out the stock horns and clean them up. Since they were already removed I decided to rattle can spray them gloss black.

If I were to do this again, I’d sand them up and try to remove the 47 years worth of crud and build up. You can see the uneven painting especially with the gloss finish.

Yup.

Went out into the man cave to adjust the hood on my Mustang Coupe. The rear part of the hood was not evenly spaced. The passenger side was approximately 1/4″ higher. With the help of wifey I was able to make both sides even.

One note, back when I was trying to reduce operating motor temperatures on my 1963 Thunderbird I did an old school trick of having a 1/4 to1/2″ gap so air would flow across the large 429 motor from the front grill to rear hood. This was a common trick back in the day.

EDIT:
Still a lot time in the day. I went ahead and adjusted my steering wheel so that it is in the correct straight position while moving forward. I also removed both horn assemblies. I plan on painting them gloss black in the morning.

I worked on the Mustang today repairing and getting my heating and defrosting system back up and running. So why go through this? Car is a street rod and I only ride during the summer season. WRONG! I can go without a heater for warmth but driving at night at near freezing temps and fog your windshield is constantly getting condensation even with the windows rolled down. I had to drive 2 hours like that using a towel to wipe a spot clean every so often and this is coming down from the mountains on twisted 2 way lanes.

Thought it would be a cheap reassurance the next time the situation popped up. Parts were cheap the labor is what took me so long. I estimate over four hours of work, mostly because I’m so big it’s hard to get under the passenger dashboard area. Luckily it’s not the driver side with the steering wheel in the way.

The original heater core was definitely leaking so it was a good call to just get a replacement. Looking at the aluminum heater core I’m guessing it was replaced before. The original cores back then I believe were made from brass.

After driving around the mustang for a couple months without power steering or power brakes I decided it was enough. I was lucky to locate a Craigslist seller that had all the power parts I needed from a 1970 Mach 1 model. This would almost be a drop in upgrade. A few misc parts would have to be fabricated. In my case the master cylinder brake lines to distribution block and a major part was the custom billet power steering pump which I could not find already made. My buddy had to CNC the part after he designed it, not a trivial task.

All the parts that I bought worked! I don’t even have any leaks from any of the parts that purchased.

One the attention to detail mods used a braided steel hosing for a vacuum function. This is way overkill for the application but looks really good coming from the rear of the intake manifold into the power booster.

The aftermarket style oil dipstick was relocated from bolting to the front of the intake manifold to a section in between the alternator bracket spacer location. This gave it a straight shot without bending the tubular guide.

I worked on cleaning the the power steering box tonight. Sucker is filthy. Trying to use engine degreaser and a wire brush to remove most of the crud. I checked the steering “slop” or play as it is sometimes referred to. It seems to be tight and no adjustments necessary.

It may not even be necessary to do all the cleaning since the steering box will be hidden below.

I pulled the coupe out for a ride today and it was pulling severely to the right. I pulled over to give it a look and found the right front tire pulled out of the head and no air! I was able to hobble back home and pull the wheel off. I also found that I have a security bolt on each wheel. Luckily I noticed that the security bolt key was in my glove box. I was able to jack the car up and remove the tire.

After inspecting the tire I couldn’t find any indication of an object piercing the tire so I took it over to the Pepboyz auto center. They performed three dunk test and searched for bubbles indicating a hole. None to be found. It’s possible that the bead dislodged during a severe hit of some sort and slowly loss air. I will check the other front tire for proper air pressure.

I need to keep an on this as I ride around without a spare tire. I always figured I’d just get the car towed home if it was disabled or had a flat tire.

I have most of the parts to do a full power brake and power steering upgrade this winter. After trying a mock up run I discovered the bolts were not even the same. The power steering bracket from the 351 Cleveland is 5/8″ and the 302 head bolts for mounting 9/16″. I’m going to have custom brackets made and the bolts fit properly into the head.

I’ll have to clean up the steering box before doing the installation. I checked the play between the rat joint and the pitman arm and there is no discernible movement. I was planning on adjusting it but it’s not necessary. I think I will try brake cleaner or the engine degreaser in a can that’s available at the local auto part store.

Looks real!

After installing the carpet in the trunk I needed to start working on the audio setup. I’m going with a light system – 12″ Alpine R Series and a pair of 6×9 triaxial speakers. The combined wattage is around 2800W.

Actually this post should be called “raising”. It turns out with my weight and a full tank of gas, sub woofer system in the trunk the car rubs when hitting a hard bump. I also had a hard time going over full length speed bumps. The ones with a break in the middle I could split and go over without rubbing. I even had a hard time getting on the driveway.

All the rubbing and bottoming out is the reason I decided to lift it up a few inches. I still need to confirm the stock leaf spring count. It seems like there should be one more spring stacked under there.

The previous owner used lowering blocks to drop the car. The original drop was 3″ and it had a nice stance to it but again that was the gas tank not filled up, sub systems and me in it.

After all the trial and error removing the blocks and replacing with another, I ended up changing out the blocks three time until I was happy with the results. Not an easy thing to do since the whole process takes a fair amount of time.