The heating furnace our home has been cutting off during the warm cycle or sometimes would not even come on when it had been set. If you took a screwdriver handle and tapped the controller you’d be able to get the pilot on and eventually the furnace would catch and turn on. It would stay on for awhile or shutdown a short time after.
Inside of the controller module is a relay that has a known tendency to “stick” in position. A sharp hit would loosen the relay and allow currently flow.
I’ve had repair estimates from an $800 dollar controller board, $480 eBay used board but eventually found it on Amazon Prime for $149! You can do a search on Amazon and find this exact controller. They are dropped shipped from North America HVAC. Even though they give an estimate of 7 days I received mine in 3.
After I examined the original 27+ year controller module I checked out the suspected failed relay component. If I was to do this again I may have replaced that part by itself to see if it repaired the problem. The issue is the downtown waiting for the part to arrive and not knowing if that part actually would fix the problem. I did the shotgun approached and replaced the module. It probably is a good idea to update the controller after so many years of use.
I tried the 12″ R-Series Alpines and they definitely have some boom but it didn’t have the same punch and low frequency boom that the two 10″ subs combined have. If I had more hatchback space I’d try out two 12″ subs but my space is very limited as it is. In fact I don’t think I can store the Targa top with this current setup in the hatchback.
One of the ports had a piece missing that cracked off at some point and it really showed since the port was silver in color and the carpet was burgundy. I rattled can spray painted both matte black and the look
I may replace the Visonik’s that are currently in the box with some other high end component model.
Well, I’ve been writing blogs way before it was the in the thing to do. I used to write a lot of traveling posts but since my job doesn’t require me to travel I switched over to topics that interest me.
If you’re reading this you must know me or part of my family.
To determine if the Kenwood amplifier is drawing current overnight and draining my battery I’m installing a Quantum Audio QA-4160 and an Alpine 12″ ported box sub-woofer system.
I know I can use a multimeter in series to see if there is a leak but i wanted to give this a try too. As far as bass thump, the seat of the pants feeling is the two 10″ sub-woofers provide more of a sharper thump. I really haven’t pushed the mono sub today but will give it a whirl tomorrow. I do like the idea that i’m able remove the ported box easily whereas the dual 10″ sub box is way more heavier.
In the end I may end up upgrading my stock CS130 105 amp alternator for a CS144 140 amp alternator and upgrade the battery cables and battery itself. I’ve spoken to a car audio specialist and they don’t use the capacitor route but rather upgrading the electrical system itself. It makes total sense to me.
Wifey cooked almost all 275 Lumpia’s during our Christmas celebration at the house. For the first time ever I’ve seen a plate of lumpia make it through the night and on to the next day. We had some serious lumpia eaters in the house!
Our less than 10 year old oven croaked and so I had to replace it before our family from NOLA arrived for the Christmas holidays.
I tried repairing the so called Whirlpool Gold model with the oven and microwave combined. It pointed to a control board that was about a third of the cost of a new oven. I figured it was better to upgrade and not have a common dual function controller again.
The 80’s bump system sounds fairly decent for what I have put into it but it does cause a surge in voltage drop when I crank it up. I’ve never used a large capacitor as a “storage” sink for current but thought I’d give it a try.
Back in the Eightys I used to mess around with car audio. I had cars with four 10″ inch subs with high power amplifiers. I think I lost most of my hearing during this stage of my life.
Well, talk about regression. I have an 80’s car and some fairly serious thump in the trunk.
I pulled the four stock Bose speakers from their stock locations and installed Fosgates. Added a 10″ inch dual sub woofer speakers in a custom made box. The subs are being driven by a Kenwood 800W amplifier.
Last night I thought I’d give the Vette a start for warm up. After a few minutes of idling I tried to turn the key into the “off” position and the damn this was stuck solid.
So here’s the Vette in the garage getting hotter and smelling up the garage with exhaust even while the door was opened. The only way I could cut off the engine was to pull the ignition coil wire. Once that killed the engine I was able to disconnect the battery and kill all the power
In order to replace the ignition key tumbler you have to remove the entire steering wheel and either disable VATS or get a key that has the compatible VATS code. All it is a resistor with a particular value that’s within the range of 15 possibilities.
