Thought I’d pop out the stock horns and clean them up. Since they were already removed I decided to rattle can spray them gloss black.

If I were to do this again, I’d sand them up and try to remove the 47 years worth of crud and build up. You can see the uneven painting especially with the gloss finish.

Yup.

Went out into the man cave to adjust the hood on my Mustang Coupe. The rear part of the hood was not evenly spaced. The passenger side was approximately 1/4″ higher. With the help of wifey I was able to make both sides even.

One note, back when I was trying to reduce operating motor temperatures on my 1963 Thunderbird I did an old school trick of having a 1/4 to1/2″ gap so air would flow across the large 429 motor from the front grill to rear hood. This was a common trick back in the day.

EDIT:
Still a lot time in the day. I went ahead and adjusted my steering wheel so that it is in the correct straight position while moving forward. I also removed both horn assemblies. I plan on painting them gloss black in the morning.

I worked on the Mustang today repairing and getting my heating and defrosting system back up and running. So why go through this? Car is a street rod and I only ride during the summer season. WRONG! I can go without a heater for warmth but driving at night at near freezing temps and fog your windshield is constantly getting condensation even with the windows rolled down. I had to drive 2 hours like that using a towel to wipe a spot clean every so often and this is coming down from the mountains on twisted 2 way lanes.

Thought it would be a cheap reassurance the next time the situation popped up. Parts were cheap the labor is what took me so long. I estimate over four hours of work, mostly because I’m so big it’s hard to get under the passenger dashboard area. Luckily it’s not the driver side with the steering wheel in the way.

The original heater core was definitely leaking so it was a good call to just get a replacement. Looking at the aluminum heater core I’m guessing it was replaced before. The original cores back then I believe were made from brass.

After driving around the mustang for a couple months without power steering or power brakes I decided it was enough. I was lucky to locate a Craigslist seller that had all the power parts I needed from a 1970 Mach 1 model. This would almost be a drop in upgrade. A few misc parts would have to be fabricated. In my case the master cylinder brake lines to distribution block and a major part was the custom billet power steering pump which I could not find already made. My buddy had to CNC the part after he designed it, not a trivial task.

All the parts that I bought worked! I don’t even have any leaks from any of the parts that purchased.

One the attention to detail mods used a braided steel hosing for a vacuum function. This is way overkill for the application but looks really good coming from the rear of the intake manifold into the power booster.

The aftermarket style oil dipstick was relocated from bolting to the front of the intake manifold to a section in between the alternator bracket spacer location. This gave it a straight shot without bending the tubular guide.