While checking out the Impalas front suspension. I noticed the worn parts underneath. This is like the proverbial chase a rabbit down the hole. There is a lot to be addressed under the suspension. The items that affect functionality will be be fixed first. Any cosmetic upgrades will be done at later date unless it makes sense to do it now. As an example, I want to paint all the drums black since you are really able to see it now due to the Supreme wheels I installed. The front wheels are off so this is a good time to do it.

I picked up a couple replacement front stabilizer bar links. These included the long bolt, bushings and plates.

The existing linkage appears to be the original pieces which would be hard to believe. It would seem by this time 54 years later the rubber parts would have been replaced. The linkage rubber was so bad it literally crumbled while trying to remove it from the stabilizer bar. You can the huge difference between the old and new parts.

Installed the new MOOG linkage kit. I had to use a jack stand under each drum and elevate the entire A-arm assembly to get the new set in. Almost like simulating a wheel was mounted and in contact with the ground. There was no way for me to get it installed with the frame just sitting on the jack stands.

While the car was jacked up I went ahead and pulled out both shocks to see if each were functioning correctly. These seem to be fine and expanded out once compressed. These shocks are not stock and had the name “OE Spectrum”. After a bit of research I found that the Monroe Company makes this model.

Once again, since I had the front wheels off and the car jacked up I started looking into the braking system. When using the brakes aggressively the car will want to veer to the right. This is a consistent and repeatable issue.

I had a hell of a time getting the drum off. I had to use the star adjust and set the brake shoes to the maximum distance away from the inner drum. It took a lot of turns to get the hub off. This is due to the brake shoes wearing the drum and developing a ridge along the outer edge. The star adjuster was designed for this type of situation. There is an access hole/slot on the web section, you can insert a tool or slotted screw driver to turn the star screw.

The drum is going to need resurfacing done. I’ve seen replacement drums online that are very inexpensive. I’m not to thrilled about using some cheap ass metal. I measured about 0.102” so I believe I’m still within the range to still safely have the drum resurfaced.

One thing nice about this older drum style brakes is not having to pop out bearings and having to use a press to re-install a set of bearings. The center section of the hub is removable and it has the collar attached.

Wrapping it up for tonight. I’ll need to take the drum over to wheel shop that can still turn old style drums. There is a shop at Rancho Cordova, CA. that has the equipment and personnel that can run the old time machine.